A Vision from the Thunder Dragon

The tiny kingdom of Bhutan gets ready to present the best of the sights and sounds of its ancient living culture to the world.

When 190 countries, institutions, and organizations come together as a small global city to present their creative vision at the World Expo 2000 in Germany, the kingdom of Bhutan will depict the Bhutanese view of tomorrow’s world, symbolized by a traditional lhakhang (temple) which depicts the necessity of ancient tradition in a changing world.

Expo 2000 opening in June in the German city of Hannover will be a showcase of cultural diversity and will reflect the dreams, schemes and projects of the world’s nations to improve their way of life. The prestigious Expo, inspired by the theme “Humankind, Nature and Technology: a new world arising”, will be characterized by futuristic landmarks and exceptional architecture.

Among numerous innovative representations, the United Arab Emirates is recreating a desert fort, Finland is presenting a building called a wind nest with a full grown birch forest, and the Japanese have chosen to construct a giant sized dome with recycled paper. In the midst of this landscape a Bhutanese Lhakhang will stand as testimony to the living culture of the kingdom and one which the organizers believe aptly represents the essence of the kingdom’s heritage.”We represent the rich harmony between the cultural history of man at its best and the environment in its most pristine form,” explains a Bhutanese scholar. “We believe that this is an important message to the future as the world gathers in all its wonderful diversity.”

Sitting serenely on a 1750 sq. metre site, Bhutan’s pavilion comprises a main lhakhang, with a sertog (gilded pinnacle), flanked by two smaller outer lhakhangs. The entire complex is linked by an open pillared gallery. On the right side of the lhakhang is a chorten and, on the left, a mani dungkor (prayer wheel). A stone courtyard in front of the temple will be a stage for traditional Bhutanese dance and music.

The main lhakhang, with a full sized altar (chhoshum), will be formally consecrated at the Expo and a koenyer (monk caretaker) will look after it during the entire expo period which stretches for five months ending in October, 2000.

According to Bhutan’s National Environment Commission, which is coordinating the project, the combination of a lhakhang and a prayer flags in a courtyard represents the unique and harmonious cultural and spiritual environment of the kingdom. Deputy Minister Dasho Nado Rinchen is Bhutan’s Commissioner General for the Expo.

Although there are 50 country pavilions now under construction, Bhutan’s lhakhang complex has already attracted considerable attention among the Germans and has been dubbed by the Expo organizers as a “Jewel of the Expo.” Strategically located near one of the main entrances, the project organizers are confident of attracting a sizeable portion of the 80,000 visitors expected to visit the Expo every day.

“We are so different everyone, including carpenters from the other countries, has been coming to see our craftsmen work with their hands,” says Sonam Wangmo of Bhutan Architectural Design, the firm which designed the pavilion. “They have never seen anything like it.”

Thematic exhibitions inside the lhakhang complex will encapsulate Bhutan’s commitment to maintaining environment and culture while it pursues socio-economic development. The presentations include Bhutan’s environment philosophy guided by the Buddhist concept of the middle path, land use planning in agriculture, traditional medicine, and Bhutan’s tourism policy which emphasizes a sustainable ecology. Bhutan Post will showcase its philately achievements. A photo exhibition will be featured alongside some of the best examples of Bhutan’s arts and crafts.

“We will also recreate the interior of a typical Bhutanese farmhouse and, looking through the window, we will see aspects of Bhutanese environment projected on large panels - from high altitude living to sub tropical Bhutan. We want to give visitors a feel and taste of Bhutan through our installations,” says Karma Wangdi, a Thimphu artist who has been commissioned to design the display.

The interior of the lhakhang will be decorated with Buddhist iconography as painters bring to life the walls and ceilings of the pavilion. Sculptors have created five clay images of Sakyamuni Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, Shabdrung Nawang Namgyal, the White Tara or Dolkar, and Jampelyang for the altar.

In a showcase of futuristic architecture, many of which are caught between reality and fantasy, Bhutan’s lhakhang emerges as a reminder of the beauty of the natural world and of a nation’s respect and connection to its culture.

“Bhutan hopes to stand out as an example of sustainable development at the Expo 2000, and to share its philosophy of life with not only the developing countries, but the industrialized world as well,” says a spokesman for the NEC.

Understanding for a complex hand-crafted project, the logistics have been tricky. Dozens of craftsmen worked for nearly a year in Bhutan to create the lhakhang. Pre-fabricated from wood in the traditional style, it was then shipped in 14 containers to Germany to be reassembled by the same craftsmen who made them. Even the dolep (stone slabs) and boulders were shipped from Bhutan.

The construction had to conform to building regulations in Germany which meant that steel screws and reinforcements had to be introduced in some places. A team of 15 craftsmen, an engineer and architect, Peter Schmid, has been on site in Hannover since December 1999, assembling the lhakhang piece by piece. Bhutan’s Special Commission has also posted a pavilion manager in Germany for a year and a half to supervise the project.

The Bhutanese exhibition, including a team of cultural performers and artisans will cost about two million Deutche Mark, or US 1.04 million. The Germany government has contributed 1.5 million Deutche Mark and the rest is borne by the Bhutanese government. The pre-fabricated lhakhang will be dismantled after the Expo ends on the 31st of October. The organizers plan to recoup some of the expenditure by offering the pavilion for sale to interested buyers, particularly to Buddhist individuals or organizations.

By: Siok Sian Pek